Buying Bespoke Mens Shirts - The Benefits And What To Look For
21 September 2008
Bespoke shirt tailoring is undergoing a surge of popularity in the UK as more men realise there are options beyond designer labels. Bespoke tailoring gives the opportunity to specify every aspect of how a shirt is cut, and allows the wearer to experience the feel and look of a perfectly fitted shirt. The following is a guide on what features you should expect from a quality bespoke made mens shirt.
Obviously, the main benefit of a bespoke shirt is that it fits the wearer perfectly; after all, the shirt has been made specifically for the wearer. Signs that a shirt is fitted well are:
* A bespoke mens shirt should not feel tight or appear baggy across the shoulders, chest, stomach, or seat. The cut of the shirt should follow the contours of the body, without being too close or restrictive a fit. A fabric allowance of about 6 inches on the chest body measurement, 5 inches on the stomach measurement, and 6 inches on the seat measurement should give good results with average body dimensions, although these allowances are variable depending on the wearer’s build.
* The sleeves of the shirt should be long enough so that the cuffs do not move up the arm when the arms are raised above the head. Similarly, they should not be so long that when the arms are hanging by the side of the body, there is a significant excess of fabric on the sleeves near to the cuffs.
* The collar of the shirt should leave enough space to insert your thumb comfortably between the collar and the neck when buttoned, and should not feel tight or hang loose around the neck.
* The length of the shirt should be long enough so that the tails hang just below the seat when worn. This will ensure that the shirt does not become untucked during use.
* The cuffs of a bespoke mens shirt should be just too tight to slip over the hand when buttoned. It should be necessary to undo the cuffs when putting on the shirt.
Aside from the fit of the shirt, there are a number of other important features to keep an eye out for:
* Fabrics - A bespoke mens shirt should only ever be constructed from pure cotton fabric. Cotton affords the wearer far greater comfort than man made fibres, and give a classic Jermyn Street look and feel to a shirt. The count of the fabric should be as high as possible - the higher the count, the finer the fabric. Popular fabric weaves include poplin (a plain weave and the classic English shirting), twill (a heavier, diagonal weave), fils-a-fils (a tiny graph paper check that appears to be solid colour from a distance), and oxford (generally, the heaviest weave).
* Collars - The collar should be hand made, and can be either fused or unfused. A well fused collar will give a smooth look with no puckering, and should use cotton interfacing materials. Collars should have removable bones to keep the shape of the wings perfectly straight when inserted.
* Stitching - All stitching throughout the shirt should be single-needle stitching. This technique is more time-consuming than commercial methods, but gives strong seams that are significantly more pucker-resistant.
* Pattern matching - When using striped or patterned fabrics, pattern matching should occur wherever possible.
* Sleeve plackets - Where the sleeves meet the cuffs, traditional packets should be used. Highest quality shirts do not provide placket buttons as these are uneccessary in a well formed placket.
* Split yoke - To ensure a perfect fit across the shoulders, a split (4 piece) yoke should be used.
* Buttons - These should be cross-stitched onto the shirt by hand to ensure that they do not become loose over time.
* Tails - The tails of the shirt should be rounded and strengthened by a gusset.
Please visit www.curtisanddyer.co.uk for more information on mens shirts.
Richard Leitch is a founding member of Curtis & Dyer Shirtmakers, who supply quality bespoke mens shirts in the UK. Please visit www.curtisanddyer.co.uk for more information on mens shirts.
Plus Size Fashion Tips
21 September 2008
There are certain basic guidelines every women should observe when selecting clothing and accessories. You should first determine your basic body type and use this as a basis for making clothing choices. Just remember that these are general guidelines and not hard and fast rules. You must be the final judge of what looks best on you and also remember, that if a piece of clothing doesn’t feel comfortable to you, then it doesn’t matter how flattering or stylish it is!
Your first priority should be choosing clothing that is of high quality and is offered at a reasonable price. It’s all about value. With these points in mind, below are several guidelines for selecting plus size clothing that will bring out the best in your individual body type:
1. Don’t Let Clothing Hang Off Your Body
The entire point of new plus size clothing fashions today is the wide selection of great fitting styles for plus size women. Gone are the days of tent-like frocks and other unflattering garments. Of course, a lot depends on your size and body type, but you should be able to find clothing that flatters your figure without completely draping over you. Even a loose, flowing summer dress with short sleeves that reveals nicely tanned arms and well-turned ankles can be both extremely flattering and comfortable. Also consider loose tops such tunic tops.
2. Be Careful With Skin Tight Clothing
There’s certainly no rule that says plus size women shouldn’t wear tight clothing. It’s really a matter of comfort — even in petite sizes, skintight clothing can be uncomfortable. Spandex is a remarkable fabric and it is found in a lot of plus size clothing. A little give to a garment is a great thing. Ultimately it’s up to you if you’re comfortable going to the gym in Spandex tights or out to a club in a cat suit.
3. Consider High Waisted Dresses
A dress with a high waistline, sometimes referred to as an “empire waist”, can greatly flatter your figure by making your waist appear much smaller. A wide range of dress styles from casual to formal are offered with empire waist lines. Decorative bodices and stripes below the bust line further accentuate the impression of a small waistline. They should be a part of every plus size women’s wardrobe.
4. Be Careful With Swim Skirts
There are lots of great swimsuits to choose from in plus sizes. A common style in plus size swim wear is the swim skirt and swim dress. The swim skirt can draw attention away from your waist and rear, but this style also harkens back to swim fashions from the 1920s.
Often times a slimming one-piece suit can work very well depending on your size and body type. Where swim skirts can be effective is in 2-piece suits or tankinis.
5. Consider Wraps
If your upper arms are not as firm as you’d like you may wish to consider wearing cover-ups. Wraps and cover-ups are also a great way for adding a touch of elegance to formal wear and gowns and will also provide warmth to your shoulders on cool evenings. Remember that long sleeves can be very sexy in plus sizes!
By keeping this short list of plus size fashion tips in mind you can put together an amazing wardrobe for all seasons and occasions.
For more ideas and trends in Quality Plus Size Womens Clothing visit http://www.newplussize.com - plus size store reviews, articles, savings, and more.
Old School Looks
15 September 2008
We have found countless ways of “improving” our self appearance. These ways could be makeup, hair dye, breast implants, clothing, or anything else that can alter the way you look. In my opinion, these are not all necessary, but who am i kididng? These are pretty cool inventions.
Have you ever watched and laughed at a sixties, seventies, or eighties movie? That is what sparked this very article, or more specifically, glasses. Wow! They had no style whatsoever! I suppose for their time they did, but by todays standards, those magnifyers are disgusting! Back then, people wore glasses because they had to, not becuase they could look good.
Today, you see girls and guys with some flashy looking glasses. Heres a little input from yours truly - They have no perscription! Thats right. They wear them for an image. Glasses are a style these days that was never thought of by the generations before us. So here is my question, Weren’t they searching for an alternitive years ago?Contact Lenses would have made seventies movies WAY less painful.
Now, after saying this, what will people say about us in 20 or 30 years? Surely we are not stuck up and naive enough to say that our style is as good as it could ever be. That is like proposing that our technology can no longer advance! Did they think they had style down in the sixties? Questions to ponder keep a mind active, regardless how unimportant they may be. So stay sharp and wonder these ridiculous wonders with me!
Feel free to reprint this article as long as you keep the article, this caption and author biography in tact with all hyperlinks.
Tyler Brooker is the owner and operator of Online Discount Contact Lens - www.online-discount-contact-lens.com, which is the best site on the internet for all Contact Lens related information.
Plus Size Shopping Online
29 August 2008
In today’s world, time is everything. So, the last thing that you need is to spend more time then you have shopping all over the place and ending up settling for something that may not have purchased otherwise. So, why not giving plus size shopping online a try? Believe me, you will not regret it!
As a plus size woman myself, I have researched plus size shopping online for several reasons. First, I taught in remote communities and the only way to purchase plus size clothing was to drive several hours, spend the night in a larger city which did not always have a lot to offer in plus sizes, settling for something and spending more than just the price value of the outfit as it also included gas, eating in restaurants, renting a hotel room and spending a lot of time doing it.
The second reason was variety. You see, it seems that no matter how small you wear in plus sizes, the average clothing store never seem to have your size or the style that you want while the specialized boutique is often adding a huge price tag to the outfit. The selection may be better but at these prices, how many outfits can you afford?
The third reason is fashion. I mean, the styles that are displayed in these usually small boutiques may be suitable for either business women or special occasions but what about the more casual clothes that you can comfortably wear on a daily basis?
The fourth reason was about the fabrics. Let’s be honest, there is nothing flattering about wearing stretchy fabrics that used to be popular in the sixties. Also, the fabrics that are often available seem to usually be either itchy or make you feel hot with perspiration.
The fifth and last reason was comfort. It always seems to me that people assume that plus size clothing is automatically comfortable because of its size. Wrong! On several occasions, I was frustrated by the lace, the sequins, the elastics or the low cut neckline.
What does plus size shopping online actually offers you? Well, it has a lot of advantages in itself. For example, time is money and by browsing online, it allows you to view a wide selection of plus size clothing. Also, a description of each item, the availability of the items in several sizes as well as a sizing chart is usually there to assist you in your shopping. And the last but not least, the prices, which due to the competition on the internet, are usually reasonable and affordable. As you can see, there are quite a few advantages to shop online so why not make it your way to shop?
As a plus size woman myself, I have been researching thoroughly the advantages of plus size shopping online and gathered a useful list of recommended resources. Plus sizes are no more an obstacle in itself. If you wish to view these resources, I invite you to visit my site: http://plus-sizes.findoutnow.org
Menswear - Putting Together A Business Wardrobe
28 August 2008
We’re going to discuss some specific aspects of Men’s business dressing, which has different rules than women’s. Ladies, if you have a husband, son, brother, good friend or other relative that could use this information, please feel free to pass it along. Enjoy this segment, and come back for the others!
Whether you are a new college graduate, just joining the working world, changing jobs due to a merger, acquisition or “dot-bomb” or just feel the need to update your professional look, putting together a business wardrobe can be a scary prospect.
In the next installments of this article, we’ll discuss the components of a great classic wardrobe that will have you well dressed for years, and will prove to be wise investments.
Let’s start with the potentially most expensive, yet most important part of your business wardrobe - your suits. Rather than buy the latest cutting-edge, designer look of the moment that will be dated and obsolete next year, select 3 - 4 classically tailored suits in year-round fabrics and conservative colors.
If you’ve seen my articles about Color and it’s effect on you, you’ll know that men also fall into the color “Seasons”, and there are suggestions for colors in those articles. I’ll also include some hints and tips in this article regarding colors for men’s suits.
A popular choice of fabric in men’s suits is 120’s merino wool in a bengaline weave, which tends to resist wrinkling and provides a natural stretch for increased comfort. What’s 120’s merino wool? Well, Merino Wool is a specific designation for the wool grown and sheared from Merino sheep. It’s very silky and soft, and the fiber diameter further distinguishes the various grades of Merino Wool.
There are three major classifications: Super 100 (wool fibers slightly thicker than 18 microns), Super 100s (wool fibers less than 18 microns thick), and Super 120’s (wool fibers sheared only from the neck and shoulders of the sheep, under 16 microns thick).
The higher the grade number of the wool, the finer and more luxurious the fabric will be that is created from it and correspondingly, the higher the price for the garment! A suit made of a Super 120’s wool will cost more, however, that same suit will last years instead of months. It is well worth the investment in yourself and your professional appearance.
Popular choices for men’s suit colors include navy and charcoal grey, in a plain or pinstripe pattern, and make for a polished look. This is a terrific suggestion for men whose coloring is cool or blue-based. Winters and Summers are included in this color range. Additional popular colors for cooler-toned men are midnight navy, black, and gray navy.
Men who are warmer in their coloring could choose a bright navy, warm taupe or camel as a basic suit color, remembering that dark navy or black will wash out the coloring on these men and may make them look pale or unhealthy. Not exactly the impression we want to give, now is it?
Classic looks are ensured with a two or three button jacket, and current trends are favoring the 3-button style. More trendy looks have been seen with over 4 buttons on a single-breasted jacket, but these looks are best kept for evening activities and not for a business look.
Double-breasted suits can be problematic if your physique is not suited for them, and the difficulty of sitting in an always-buttoned jacket can cause extra wear and tear on your investment.
Business pants with a double-reverse pleat are a classic that will endure. You should be sure to have them tailored to fit your physique, as pulled-out pleats from an abundant abdomen or rear are sure to make you look even bigger, not business-like. An adept tailor is invaluable to a businessman, and the recommendations of friends and associates will help you find a good one.
Many suit retailers offer tailoring with a purchase, which can be a good way to start. Always test a new or unfamiliar tailor with one suit, so that if he / she doesn’t work to your liking; they haven’t affected your entire wardrobe!
Once you have your 3 or 4 basic suits, you can slowly add other suits to round out your business and entertaining wardrobe. Remember to keep your suit colors classic, and use what you know about your personal coloring (cool or warm) to choose shades and variations that will suit you best.
The best rule of thumb for Menswear: wear what is comfortable for you, remembering that classic tailoring and the right colors for you will best stand the test of time.

About the Author: Dianne M. Daniels is an Image & Color Coach, Consultant and Professional Speaker, and the author/publisher of “Polish & Presence: 31 Days to a New Image”. She has helped individuals refine and define their personal and professional image, along with corporations and organizations. Learn how to create your Personal Climate for Personal and Professional Success at http://www.imageandcolor.com
The Rise of Social Conscience in Art Inspired Fashion
19 August 2008
Art can be a means of reconstructing experiences, communicating emotions or echoing the sentiments of individuals or the masses. From the ancient to the modern, artistic works have run the table from simple observations on life to biting social commentary. The growing segment of contemporary artists who bravely showcase their displeasure with the current state of affairs using creation as an inspiration for positive social change are turning up in the strangest of places, even the world of fashion.
While the fashion industry is often viewed as an institution of pretentiousness, demand is still the driving force behind the successes and failures of it’s resident elite. Just as consumability regularly forces the hand of design, or rather post runway re-design, growing discontentment and the desire to express the need for a higher social conscience is driving the union between revolutionary art and clothing.
The fashion world is not unlike the music industry, where most are willingly force fed the flavor du jour while a much smaller segment of others will seek out what suits their individual tastes. Shopping mall entrenched retailers are the “contemporary hits” formatted radio stations of the fashion world, where the top ten play list is decided on long before anyone has a chance to consider the merit of the work for themselves. Individualism in society is testing the boundaries of this formula and the effect can be seen in the increased demand for apparel that not only separates itself esthetically, but progressively as well. As more segments of society begin to understand the power of clothing as a mechanism of expression, the natural merger between avant-garde art and fashion will continue to grow. With a great multitude of artists continuing to communicate the need for changes in the way we view ourselves, our relationships with each other and the environment we live in, it seems only natural that the canvas of the human body is next in line as the foremost bearer of this message.
Kingston writes for www.reformapparel.com you can also read more of his articles at re-formyourworld.blogspot.com/